I've a Norsk Kicksled, a Spark, with rusted runner edges. Anyone know where I might get the polyrunners I've read about OR get the blades polished? Thanks!
Google adsense ad test in progress...
The site is only receiving the Public Service Announcements so far. I'm going to give it the 48 hrs google recommends and see if the ads get more targeted.
In these challenging economic times, there is no free lunch.. so hopefully the site can help to pay the hosting costs. (New servers = faster site).
Enough ice at lauch site to drive on.
Silver Harbour looking North.This ice goes on for about 5 miles.
Here are a few shots from Silver Harbour today after a light dusting of snow
Checkout the Bronze fleet third-race results in the "This Day in Ice Boating History - January 13, 1992 Wisconsin State Journal" item on iceboat.org's home page - just twelve years later things were a little different...
One of the biggest hassles in finishing a DN is getting the plank mounting hardware in the right place (and the same place on multiple hulls and planks).
Last fall when I was moving the plank attachment from external to internal on my backup hull I decided I wanted to have all my gear interchangeable. The easiest way to do that was to make a jig that locates the holes for both the hull and plank hardware so they are correct relative to each other, and the same everywhere.
After a week of working evenings my hull is back ready to go sailing.
All the sanding is done and the hull-plates are screwed down again. I edged the hull-plates with thickened epoxy to take some of the shear-load off the screws. I'd done this before and it seemed to work well in the de-planking, as the plates were able to pull away from the hull (relatively) cleanly during the crash.
Hi, I'm restoring an old DN that is mostly complete, but is missing one boom block. All the other pulleys are large, 4" x 5 1/2" with 1/8" thick side plates. The mount for the boom differs from the deck mount by it's concave mount surface v flat surface, but I could make either work I've been told this might be a Sarns block (?) If anyone has one laying around, I'd like to put it to use and keep the boat sort of period correct. Thanks, Paul
I've been sailing on the wet stuff for 20 plus years. Heard about ice boats a number of yeas ago. I made a very simple one using a sunfish sail, got hooked with the idea that a better boat was better sail. Started looking for a used one for sale. Found what I was told is a "Stobstead Hull #4" by the seller. It is a simple tee with tensioned/arched hull and bowed cross member. The rigging is made by Stobstead Sails out of Old Saybrook, CT. Have any of you heard of such a boat? Looking for information, thx. The next step up is a D/N. Living in CT, sailing the lakes in the winter and the L.I.
Tonight was relatively quick. Some sanding of the lumps and drips from last night's work, then flip the boat upright and work on the cockpit-floor side of the hole punched through the bottom. A little work with the grinder/DA on the edges, then cutting and feathering the edges of the patch, and it was ready to glue.
The word "blustery" just crept into Friday's forecast. Along with the 8" of black ice locally, the day holds promise.
With the clamps and weights removed all the patches looked good. After some "quality time" making dust with the dual-action sander everything was smooth and (mostly) level. The next step was to mix up some epoxy
Update: Check my blog here for more progress reports.
Tuesday is the regular "Boat Night" at the Nordhaus Boatwerks, so I had plenty of company (and help) with repairs.
I decided to start attacking the holes and gouges in the bottom. The first step was to feather out all the edges and make plugs for the access holes through the cockpit floor so I could fill in all the damage around them.